tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89470796353170478962024-03-05T19:18:34.917-08:00tom's shelves blogThis blog is a portfolio of bespoke shelving solutions. Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.comBlogger9125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-33920779394278582602019-11-06T04:58:00.003-08:002019-11-06T04:58:57.505-08:00Two ways of fixing shelves to walls without using battens:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitspLQh3C8injEdoRhf9LAwZmbXkLPsHXjZ5qLymAwFVJ8bOtxF9PPpkSCdrhcGdjQ_YzlTH4pv9siFedyt3b9uCtWHv3dPpdy6Y8Ga29YvlIzlzTFeY-3dKqYhPzUlzk8YvBVpsrRcV8/s1600/bracket+1+%25281%2529.png" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7akUgU7Tbn67F3A0aMGY3V3xoEjyZC0OZ2XuxrhzAokQJbkWA6_5wBZWoE0bzKqpifnwFZnr9TUqiIxJOsqhVeCnAAWIwMDsZlreQ9alVcyY8TzaeWyA5tc71_E9464tcZV9d_AF5vyE/s1600/bracket+1+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7akUgU7Tbn67F3A0aMGY3V3xoEjyZC0OZ2XuxrhzAokQJbkWA6_5wBZWoE0bzKqpifnwFZnr9TUqiIxJOsqhVeCnAAWIwMDsZlreQ9alVcyY8TzaeWyA5tc71_E9464tcZV9d_AF5vyE/s320/bracket+1+%25282%2529.png" width="320" /></a><img border="0" height="148" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitspLQh3C8injEdoRhf9LAwZmbXkLPsHXjZ5qLymAwFVJ8bOtxF9PPpkSCdrhcGdjQ_YzlTH4pv9siFedyt3b9uCtWHv3dPpdy6Y8Ga29YvlIzlzTFeY-3dKqYhPzUlzk8YvBVpsrRcV8/s320/bracket+1+%25281%2529.png" width="320" />Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-36293601842718976242018-02-28T04:03:00.001-08:002018-02-28T04:03:52.004-08:00New installationbefore (flat-pack):<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1K5BZKnVaw4Ejs5jyVA6KSlvMFh63iCUgdK4ESd7kqN-TiDJJyhwEA-dpzVoWbQW7SUaZaOczpUREbDhIybSF8WIuMPBCS4PKzzwCJnCwWRl_p6V-PXZlAyBJL_eZZRt6vDFQB2DClDo/s1600/20180113_201140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1K5BZKnVaw4Ejs5jyVA6KSlvMFh63iCUgdK4ESd7kqN-TiDJJyhwEA-dpzVoWbQW7SUaZaOczpUREbDhIybSF8WIuMPBCS4PKzzwCJnCwWRl_p6V-PXZlAyBJL_eZZRt6vDFQB2DClDo/s320/20180113_201140.jpg" width="180" /></a><br />
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next (flat-pack removed):</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3xhPp83shGnBZ0kfsXIDx1c-SCAj6iqgF3YM2lTL8XT94zht4eO7EhWxGaP68oLEdKbXVNUOb7NPHIRokuvGW4gFrwbBd9vzG1Q9cu-Jtp2wESlVfHurZpSSzcGY3jGq-NT6nKs4-1bQ/s1600/20180213_121638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3xhPp83shGnBZ0kfsXIDx1c-SCAj6iqgF3YM2lTL8XT94zht4eO7EhWxGaP68oLEdKbXVNUOb7NPHIRokuvGW4gFrwbBd9vzG1Q9cu-Jtp2wESlVfHurZpSSzcGY3jGq-NT6nKs4-1bQ/s320/20180213_121638.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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new components prepared:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV_1KcD92plg1iM9uAzefatwkx5Q27hfKz2cqzDdCJlvP2oYmBGxWNN2kRr9vB0VYsmgbxaJzBtvZdMrqjOFLGfch3Vx_lV5-z0g1F7NceZKCYa2vHExEWqo_7SLqrzNbf0dZUi8JWG-U/s1600/20180209_142417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="1600" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV_1KcD92plg1iM9uAzefatwkx5Q27hfKz2cqzDdCJlvP2oYmBGxWNN2kRr9vB0VYsmgbxaJzBtvZdMrqjOFLGfch3Vx_lV5-z0g1F7NceZKCYa2vHExEWqo_7SLqrzNbf0dZUi8JWG-U/s320/20180209_142417.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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& transported:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXD3wRFS8o_Mx6hpjJqZ5Vv-JOVBdNzD3an5t2t2At4jRSaZ9YDgNjgZirIfc333X94ZnNtGFl0tmOxRGTK2zDmm3YxrpNg2Bv0mWfwUNE_cFxSwRpyTuia6VToe4FJzYFRbP3GTwwjk/s1600/20180213_102717_001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheXD3wRFS8o_Mx6hpjJqZ5Vv-JOVBdNzD3an5t2t2At4jRSaZ9YDgNjgZirIfc333X94ZnNtGFl0tmOxRGTK2zDmm3YxrpNg2Bv0mWfwUNE_cFxSwRpyTuia6VToe4FJzYFRbP3GTwwjk/s320/20180213_102717_001.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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bespoke bookcase installed:</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0SjIDnOtCZXFtLP_6lhCVkMPxkQrLl8ITcs9AX4AeykyDV_6sCghjcNXgBjG7rwH342uJOt3pQ7rzWpGFzRHlYIChShVXVWR6TPtQVv8zZJZBa4M8V8suxL2pvjK8CIWDnXS3tUxQUXI/s1600/20180215_163017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="900" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0SjIDnOtCZXFtLP_6lhCVkMPxkQrLl8ITcs9AX4AeykyDV_6sCghjcNXgBjG7rwH342uJOt3pQ7rzWpGFzRHlYIChShVXVWR6TPtQVv8zZJZBa4M8V8suxL2pvjK8CIWDnXS3tUxQUXI/s320/20180215_163017.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-39991673787496978172017-05-21T12:01:00.000-07:002017-05-21T12:01:01.722-07:00<br />
A square-inspired design for kitchen shelves <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHCa4IIHmb06Z-dkwIeqNAsZjeJQ9T9yINyG5r-bhNK9RtAdRLpr5BdTDM_VOIYb4LK-av7xhcaaFaQ20mpRJn_fwP0MEJyt0Wp2QdrQFNgbEayA5jmHkaivwJiskNVbRal6LWrGZ5Wy8/s1600/Helena+Morrell+kitchen+2a+%25282%2529.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHCa4IIHmb06Z-dkwIeqNAsZjeJQ9T9yINyG5r-bhNK9RtAdRLpr5BdTDM_VOIYb4LK-av7xhcaaFaQ20mpRJn_fwP0MEJyt0Wp2QdrQFNgbEayA5jmHkaivwJiskNVbRal6LWrGZ5Wy8/s400/Helena+Morrell+kitchen+2a+%25282%2529.png" /></a>Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-69376671458971771222017-05-21T11:59:00.003-07:002017-05-21T11:59:58.492-07:00This design for kitchen shelves is (as I'm sure you will have noticed) based on the pattern known as the Fibonacci Golden Spiral... <br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkacdwtM7YkeECZoYnnC02aNrMwWT2hqQpaWDJGKwvMJnHb5dUMKgM5S6apnYXx-ODvhOysrLBmykeLg9EAJOLK2KEexm7qv4hGMOAeMcMO_vIVVU2A65skSLFQefkulwhyphenhyphen1_TfiHXcGE/s1600/Helena+Morrell+kitchen+2b.png" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkacdwtM7YkeECZoYnnC02aNrMwWT2hqQpaWDJGKwvMJnHb5dUMKgM5S6apnYXx-ODvhOysrLBmykeLg9EAJOLK2KEexm7qv4hGMOAeMcMO_vIVVU2A65skSLFQefkulwhyphenhyphen1_TfiHXcGE/s400/Helena+Morrell+kitchen+2b.png" /></a>Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-60227722687851318562017-05-12T03:43:00.003-07:002020-02-07T06:44:56.929-08:00<br />
<h2 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
What is the best material for bookshelves?</h2>
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<h3 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Wood:</h3>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Red deal (higher quality smaller boards) or white deal
(bigger pieces) - this kind of "softwood" is strong and long but
because of inconsistencies and knots the surface often needs quite a bit of
preparation, so to end up with a presentable finish it usually needs to be
planed and/or scraped and sanded, and then filled and sanded again before being
painted. </div>
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It is rare for softwood boards to be perfectly straight in
their raw state, or completely uniform in thickness. Over time they can dry and
shrink a little. They can be coaxed into shape, however, and allowances can be
made for shrinking. </div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
"Hardwoods" such as oak and mahogany are usually
denser & smoother. They cost much more, but they often look decorative and
they are usually oiled or varnished/lacquered - but because the whole surface
is visible, extra time & care is needed for the most accurate joinery. </div>
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with wood:</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
18mm thick shelves - require vertical supports maximum 700mm
apart</div>
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25mm thick shelves - require vertical supports maximum 900mm
apart</div>
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</div>
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As far as the depth of wooden shelves is concerned, we are
limited to the width of the available boards, unless boards are joined
(typically with "biscuits").</div>
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Alternatively edge-laminated softwood boards (with limited
length) are available - these are made of numerous chunks, glued together.</div>
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<h3 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Other Wood-based Materials:</h3>
<div>
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<div>
Furniture Board - made of small pieces of wood glued together like a patchwork quilt. Strong and smooth, not given to warping but expensive if knots are kept to a minimum. </div>
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Plywood (not as smooth as MDF) - is made of layers of wood.
There are many different types, some with hardwood veneer.</div>
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Block board (which has thicker pieces in the middle of a ply
sandwich).</div>
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Chipboard (rough surface, bendy).</div>
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Laminated chipboard (e.g. contiboard): the surface is smooth
and already white. Thinner varieties are not strong - shelves tend to sag under
even a modest load, although kitchen furniture is often made of thicker
laminated chipboard. </div>
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with laminated chipboard:</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
12mm thick shelves - require vertical supports maximum 300mm
apart </div>
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</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
all the above wood-based materials require veneer/trim on
the edges and they have severe limitations when it comes to inserting screws.</div>
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<h3 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Medium Density Fibreboard:</h3>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
MDF is made of dust and glue. It has a smooth finish and
deceptively sharp edges (I have found to my cost), but the inside is furry, in
the types that are widely available. It has a certain superficial toughness,
but as a shelf it is not as strong as wood. Strength can be built up by gluing
boards on top of each other, and MDF can actually be very useful in conjunction
with real wood in vertical components.</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
MDF doesn't warp or twist (unless it becomes damp), and the
thickness and consistency are very uniform, which means that it can be machined
with a greater degree of accuracy than most softwood.</div>
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</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
It can be unpleasant to work with (because of the toxic
dust) and it always needs veneer/trim on the edges. MDF is usually painted, as
the bland colour isn't to everyone's taste, but it's amazing what a strip of
oak lipping and a whipe of Danish oil can do.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span></div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
with MDF:</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
18mm thick shelves - require verticals supports maximum
500mm apart</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
25mm thick shelves- require vertical supports maximum 700mm
apart</div>
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</div>
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<h3 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Other materials:</h3>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Toughened glass</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Steel</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Plumbing fittings</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Plastic</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Reclaimed materials, such as crates, old books, old pianos,
old cars</div>
Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-8285855980123590712017-04-20T12:46:00.004-07:002017-04-20T12:46:58.811-07:00<h2>
What are the components that you get on top of some shelving systems?</h2>
<br /><br />
some architectural terms include:<br />
<br /><br />
entablature - upper section<br />
architrave - moulding along the bottom of the entablature<br />
frieze or facia - the part between the architrave and the cornice<br />
cornice or crown - moulding along the top (which could include coving)<br />
pediment - triangular top<br />
raking cornice - cornice on the upper slopes of a triangular top<br />
tympanum - the bit in the middle of the pediment<br />
corbel - ornate bracket<br />
impediment - something in the way<br />
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<br />Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-7150498951220816942017-04-20T12:35:00.002-07:002017-05-12T03:44:10.307-07:00<br />
<h2 style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
How big should bookshelves
be?</h2>
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</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
I'm thinking of the individual spaces within a bookcase here
- the height between shelves, the depth from front to back and the width
between uprights.</div>
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</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Small books:</b><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>some paperbacks measure only about 180mm high
(A Format books: 178mm, Penguin 181mm), so a shelf height of just 200mm (about
8") might be considered adequate in extreme cases. </div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Minimum depth 152mm (6") but more usually about190mm
(7½").</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Medium sized books:</b>
(B Format 198mm, Demy 216mm, A5 210mm, Royal 234mm) In practice there's a
variety of book sizes on most shelves and I suggest that a shelf height of<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>less than 255mm (10") can look a bit
cramped. </div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
For most books I recommend a shelf height of between 260mm
(10¼") and 305mm (12"). </div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Depth between 240mm (9½") and 305mm (12").</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Large books:</b> I
have several ("coffee table") books which are around 380mm (15")
from top to bottom. In most cases you wouldn't need shelf space high enough for
these, as they can just as well lie horizontally.</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Records:</b> I would
allow at least 330mm (13") to allow for the generous size of some box sets.
Depth also 330mm (13").</div>
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<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">CDs:</b> I suggest a
minimum height of 135mm (5¼") and it's useful to install a backstop 147mm
(5¾") from the front edge to stop the CDs sliding away from your grasp.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;"> </b></div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Sheet music:</b> most
of my sheet music lies flat, and so do quite a few of my music<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>books. The height of the shelf can be quite
small - that can help with keeping the music sorted into identifiable sections
- from around 155mm (6"). </div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
I recommend a depth of 255mm (10") and width of 375mm
(14¾").</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Ring binders:</b>
they need about the same height as records.</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<b style="mso-bidi-font-weight: normal;">Document wallets:</b>
height 305mm (12")<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>depth 380mm
(15") width no more than 500mm (19¾").</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Every instance is also dependant on the space available and
how the bookcase would look in the room. You might want to leave spaces for
windows, ornaments, displays, musical instruments or box files...</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
Width: this depends on the size of the available space, the
appearance of the bookcase and the strength of the material. Wooden shelves can
in theory span 750mm to 1000mm (about 30" to 40") but this seldom
looks right, as the broad width tends to conflict with the vertical emphasis of
the books themselves. With 18mm mdf (which is smoother than wood and not given
to warping) I would suggest that the maximum span<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>for a book shelf would be 510mm (20") to
avoid sag. The span can be increased with thicker material (e.g. 25mm mdf) or
gluing pieces together in an mdf sandwich. </div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<br />
<div style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-13420523252472598952010-03-06T11:14:00.000-08:002010-03-06T11:15:50.983-08:00How to chop up logs<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/fAaEv1XYUDI&hl=en_GB&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fAaEv1XYUDI&hl=en_GB&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8947079635317047896.post-68707444887844534522009-05-15T14:02:00.000-07:002009-05-15T14:05:20.750-07:00Chopping up Logs: secrets of how to chop wood quickly, safely and efficiently.<o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="country-region"></o:smarttagtype><o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="City"></o:smarttagtype><o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" name="place"></o:smarttagtype><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:worddocument> <w:view>Normal</w:View> <w:zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:compatibility> <w:breakwrappedtables/> <w:snaptogridincell/> <w:wraptextwithpunct/> <w:useasianbreakrules/> </w:Compatibility> <w:browserlevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if !mso]><object classid="clsid:38481807-CA0E-42D2-BF39-B33AF135CC4D" id="ieooui"></object> <style> st1\:*{behavior:url(#ieooui) } </style> <![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0cm; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} @page Section1 {size:612.0pt 792.0pt; margin:72.0pt 90.0pt 72.0pt 90.0pt; mso-header-margin:36.0pt; mso-footer-margin:36.0pt; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0cm 5.4pt 0cm 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0cm; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} </style> <![endif]--><p style="font-weight: bold;" class="MsoNormal">Many people attempt to cut up timber for their log-burning stoves – but how many really know the time-honoured secrets practised by the real experts? Here, I reveal the simple technique that I learned in <st1:country-region><st1:place>Norway</st1:place></st1:country-region> back in 1974, which will remove a lot of the stress and injury from this much misunderstood activity. The sharpness of the axe is not important, by the way! </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Just before I get into the details, I have to explain that, at the tender age of 18, with my friend Will (now a respected doctor), I worked on a dairy farm near <st1:city><st1:place>Trondheim</st1:place></st1:city> in <st1:country-region><st1:place>Norway</st1:place></st1:country-region> for about three months. There were twenty-six cows and ten pigs. Very little English was spoken. Einar, the farmer, showed us how to chop up logs within a few minutes of our arrival. </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal">Whenever anyone came to visit, the womenfolk would look through photograph albums indoors, while the men would assemble in the farmyard and compete with each other in manly log-chopping contests. The techniques described below are those used by real Norwegians.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span>First you need a chopping block – this is a big section of log which you are not going to chop up, but on which the main chopping will take place. It’s worth spending a bit of time finding a good one, which won’t fall apart. It must be bigger than the other logs, and the top and bottom should be sawn parallel.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> In <st1:country-region><st1:place>Norway</st1:place></st1:country-region> we chopped up quite big sections of log (quite heavy to pick up) (up to a foot each way) using a great big heavy axe. Back home in the <st1:country-region><st1:place>UK</st1:place></st1:country-region> I use a small one-hand chopper and much smaller logs, which I chop into little pieces for kindling, but the technique is fundamentally the same. </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> Choose the log you want to chop. It’s easier with a straight-grained log without knots. Place it on the chopping block with a sawn surface horizontal on the top. Look for a split in that sawn face, from the outside to the middle. That split is your target.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> Bring the axe (or chopper) swiftly down onto the split, so that the axe head becomes firmly embedded in the log, where the split was. The blunt part of the axe head should now be sticking out of the top of the log by two or three inches, maybe more. </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span>It is possible that the action described above might just chop your log in two. If that happens, so much the better. However, the point is this: you are not trying to bisect your log by bringing the axe down onto it. And you won’t need to pull the axe head out and try again unless you missed your target. Read on…</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> This is the clever part, which only Norwegians know about. Pick up the axe, with the log stuck to it, move the log round behind you, and then – in one graceful rotary action (not unlike an over-arm bowl in cricket) – swing the whole thing over your head and down towards the chopping block, while simultaneously turning the axe handle, so that by the time it’s coming down, the axe head is underneath and the log is on top.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> The blunt back of the axe head hits the block and stops, but the log keeps going under its own momentum, and in so doing it breaks in twain. Viola! You have used the log’s own weight to split it, rather than brute force.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> Repeat the process with the resulting smaller sections of log until you achieve the size of segment you require.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span>If, like me, you are performing a miniaturised version of the procedure, by this stage you won’t be turning the wood over, as it’s lighter than the chopper. But there are three important things to remember when chopping up little bits: </p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> Keep splitting the segments of log from the outside to the middle, until they’re so thin that it doesn’t matter any more.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> You won’t need to bring the chopper right down to the chopping block – you’ll only need to slice sharply into the top of each segment and a piece will break off.<span style=""> </span></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> There will come a time when the bits of wood are so small they won’t stay on the block without falling over. Do not use your spare hand to steady the wood, or sooner or later you will lose a finger. Use a scrap of wood to steady the segment.</p> <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p> <p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-family: Symbol;">·</span><span style=""> </span> In case you’re wondering, I didn’t learn that part the hard way. It’s common sense; it’s better to be safe than sorry, even if it doesn’t seem manly at the time. I have known several people who have cut parts of their fingers off through milling timber, and I don’t think it added anything to their machismo.</p>Tom Morrellhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05932911472722160980noreply@blogger.com1